Breaking It Down: Tuxedos

For our inaugural edition of "Breaking It Down", xTian, L3 and Sparks discuss proper Tuxedo etiquette.

xTian went looking for guidance prior to a big hoity toity event and ended up with conflicting advice and more than he could handle. A full on "posh b*st*rd" debate broke out between L3 and Sparks.

Watch how L3 casually dismisses everyone at the end either exhausted by the conversation or running late to a Thursday gray out.
More...
From: xTian
To: Le Troisieme, Sparks
Subject: Tuxedo Guidance

Fashionistas unite!

So you are going to the first annual [redacted ]Winter Gala - New York. The invitation lists attire as "Black Tie Optional"

What is the right scenario here? Should I

(1) Wear the full tux and tux fixins (vest and bow tie)
(2) Wear the full tux with bow tie, no vest or anything like that
(3) Wear the full tux with a straight tie

Also, if we go "mellow" formal (options 2 or 3) can I go with a straight white shirt or should I still wear my tuxedo shirt?

Thanks

xTian


From: Le Troisieme
To: xTian
Cc: Sparkes
Subject: Re: Tuxedo Guidance

The only right answer is (1). Organizers of these events wish they could say black tie required, but it would hurt turnout. Go full black tie.

From: Sparks
To: xTian
Cc: Le Triosieme
Subject: Re: Tuxedo Guidance

L3 and I have different takes on this. I agree that the organizers want you to look your best, but I believe you have a bit of leeway on how to pull that off. I think the following things almost always look goofy/wedding-rentaly/prom-esque: vests, cumberbunds, wing collars (i.e., collars where you can see the tie in the back), pleating or other similar distraction on the shirt. I think the following things are really awesome: studs, patent leather shoes, black bow ties (tied yourself, of course), structured shirts (i.e., super stiff with perhaps a barely noticeable detail; not pleats). As for the suit itself, I have a black suit which looks nicer and more formal than my tuxedo (or indeed, any tuxedo I have ever tried on) and can be worn with tuxedo accoutrement.

If it were me, I'd be in my black, awesome-fitting suit, closed-collar tuxedo shirt with studs, black bow tie, patent leather shoes. I would look as good and as formal as a Moby-looking dude can look. It's about looking your best, not about the silk ribbon running down the leg.

For inspiration:



Note that he skips the studs. I agree that the studs are a weak-link in my otherwise modern take on the tuxedo. I think I like that part just because I have a set of 1920's studs and cuffs that I just like to wear.

Here's a photo of my black suit (worn here as a suit, not as a tux):

[redacted]

Has L3 thrown up in his garbage can yet? Are we still friends?

From: xTian
To: Le Troisieme, Sparks
Subject: Re: Tuxedo Guidance

yeah this is exactly what I am trying to avoid. I like my tux, it fits me well etc but the bun is sort of gay and the vest is "eh".

good meeting guys.

thanks

PS- Sparks - you and i are on the same page. Thus why i even asked the question

From: Le Troisieme
To: xTian, Sparks
Subject: Re: Tuxedo Guidance

I threw up a little in my mouth. If the tuxedo doesn't fit, you are buying the wrong tuxedo. I'm more of a stickler for the satin lapels and satin stripe running down the side of the leg. This stripe is the reason why your trousers on your black tie or white tie pants should not be cuffed.
And don't get me started on renting tuxedos (as opposed to white tie tails and pants).

Agree that point down collar is perfectly acceptable for black tie, whether with real bow ties or real neckties. If you wear a spread collar, I might have to punch you. So long as it it is a formal shirt, I'm not sure if I need to have pleats -- my white tie shirt (with detachable wing collar) has the required stiff pique front, as did my point down shirt I wore for my wedding -- but I don't find anything prom or cheese about pleats. Ruffles, on the other hand...

Studs are a must, unless there are no buttons revealed by the shirt (as opposed to the vest covering the studs). French cuffs (aka double cuffs) or single cuffs are okay (single cuffs are a must for white tie), but the point is that you should be wearing cuff links.

Compared to vests and waistcoats, I am least enthusiastic about cumberbunds, but they are perfectly fine.

That is all.

Postscript: That is all indeed. I ended up going no vest, no bun, bow tie with suspenders. It worked well, I'll post pictures if I get one from some one else