Mumbai

Evil


Two weeks into my India trip, I was quite down. India was proving too much for me – too much pollution, too much chaos, too much harassment from rickshaw drivers and store owners. It seemed that every ounce of energy I had went into dodging cows. And if it wasn’t cows, then I was hopping over cow crap. And then I was trying to run away from the street merchants who only ask one question (“What country are you from?”) and then all make the same request (“Please come take a look!”). On top of that, I came down with a bad fever and the inevitable stomach problems at two week’s end.

Things got better over the following two weeks. I started to adjust. One time I wasn’t paying as much attention as I should have on the street and nearly walked into a cow’s asshole. I side-stepped it at the last moment and silently congratulated myself on my developing street savviness. One time I saw a cow dropping on the street that was the size and shape of a large dog. Think Marmaduke. Upon seeing this, I didn’t turn away in disgust. I just said to myself, “Another day in India!”

Before arriving in Mumbai, I figured I would be in for more of the same – except multiplied by several-fold. Mumbai, with a population of 16.4 million, is India’s largest city. But instead of getting more cows, more pollution, more chaos, and more harassment, I came upon a very interesting and, dare I say, charming city. The city’s past British influence is everywhere – most noticeable in the Victorian architecture and public squares (well, really circles). Almost everyone in Mumbai goes about their daily lives and couldn’t care less about a tourist like me. The non-attention is a very welcome change of pace. Today, I was trying to buy a bottled water at one of the street stalls and the guy totally ignored me!

It’s been a nice couple of days thus far in Mumbai. Just taking it easy. Going on a few strolls each day to discover more of the city. The picture above is was taken at Oval Maidan, where some (many!) kids were playing cricket. In the background is the 80 meter high Rajabai Clock Tower. On the left and right of the clock tower (not in the picture) are the High Court and the University of Mumbai. Very scenic!

I even watched a Bollywood film today! The NYT gave Aaja Nachle lukewarm reviews and I didn’t understand any of the Hindi dialogue, but it was still great fun to watch.